Bio-load :

Every aquarium has a maximum number of fish that its system can sustain. Bio-load is term used for fish waste. A high bio-load can also increase algae growth due to increased nitrate production. As a general rule, it's recommended ONE inch of fish, per ONE gallon of water. For larger fish, it can also be said; ONE inch per THREE gallons of water. For Saltwater Aquariums, it is recommended ONE inch per TEN gallons, and for larger fish; FIFTEEN gallons.

Water Temperature :

Water Levels :

*We recommend a salinity of 1.014 - 1.017, as we keep our quarantine tanks at that salinity level.

**pH and Ammonia testing should be performed weekly. To ensure the stability of your aquarium, The Fish Guy recommends adding pH buffer weekly. We can supply all necessary buffers and conditions, and will instruct you upon dosing!!!

Acclimation of your fish :

The Fish Guy, Inc. is a full-service aquarium/pond maintenance company, and we will be glad to obtain any new livestock you wish for your aquarium from our distributors (as long as its compatible, and does not exceed recommended bio-load levels). We will guarantee replacement of any livestock we provide you with, for a period of 2 weeks after we have acclimated the livestock to your aquarium. (*certain restrictions may apply)
If you however choose to obtain livestock on your own, the acclimation process is a very important step. Make sure that any fish you select is compatible to the water conditions you have in your aquarium. If they aren't, no matter how careful you are at acclimating your fish, they will eventually die. You should know the pH and temperature of your tank water and the pH and temperature requirements of the fish you want to introduce as a minimum.

Once you are home with the fish, float the plastic bags on top of the tank for at least 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to equalize the tank and bag temperatures. After 1/2 hour add a small amount of your tank water to the bag and wait another 1/2 hour. Add more water every 1/2 hour for at least the next 2 hours until most of the water in the bag is your tank water. The purpose here is to adjust your fish to the pH and hardness as well as other conditions of your tank water. Rapid pH changes can severely affect otherwise healthy fish. As fish are becoming accustomed to their new surroundings their defenses are down and stress high. This is perfect for such stress related diseases as Ick.

When the time comes to add your fish into the aquarium, Do NOT add the water from the fish bag to your aquarium!!! Remove fish by using a net and bucket so you avoid adding potentially harmful water to your aquarium.  (ex - ammonia/disease).

Feeding your Livestock :
We recommend that you feed your fish smaller portions twice daily. A portion should consist of what your fish can consume in a 2-3 minute period. There should not be any excess food that gets sucked into the filter, or lay uneaten in the gravel. Any uneaten food should be removed. If you need to do this frequently, chances are you're overfeeding, or feeding an improper diet. Overfeeding creates an increase in ammonia, which leads to a spike in nitrates. Fish food also contains a lot of phosphates. An elevated nitrate and phosphate level in your aquarium are the two main reasons for algae growth. Make sure you fish are "awake" when feeding takes place. Don't feed them when you first put the lights on, or are ready to shut them off!!! Fish can also go 1-2 days without being fed, if necessary. Adding an Auto Feeder can make feeding easier (ie-vacations, long weekends, less waste, etc) Remember it's also a great idea to feed your livestock a variety of foods. There are numerous choices which range from frozen, freeze dried, flake, pellet, etc. Our aquarium technicians can provide you with the recommended types of food for your inhabitants. Auto Feeders as well as a variety of foods are readily available for drop off!!

Your Guide to Algae :
There are thousands of different strands of algae, we will touch upon a few that we find are the most common . . . A major factor in algae growth is exposure to light. The Fish Guy recommends, leaving your lights on only when you are viewing your fish.  This excludes however Live Plant Aquariums which we recommend on average of 4-6hrs per day . .and Reef Aquariums; 8-10hrs per day of lighting. Special bulbs for live plant and reef aquariums are also available (bulbs usually need to be changed every 8-14mos)..Ask For More Info!!!

Green Algae :
Green water in the aquarium (like pea soup), that can last for hours, days, even weeks. Green algae will bloom from the release of spores, which are only made worse from lighting or sun exposure. We need to eliminate the cause of the bloom by adding phosphate absorbing media, algae medications, protein skimmer, etc.

Green Hair Algae :
Dark green fine filaments, loosely attached to various equipment/decorations in the aquarium. They can last for extended periods of time, and can be difficult to control. To eliminate the problem, we will again need to add a phosphate absorbing media, algae medications, possible addition of a protein skimmer, and the use of snails, or hermit crabs (depending upon your aquarium's livestock profile).

Brown, Yellow, Green, Blue Algae :
Fast growing flattened, Y-shaped branches. This type of algae may bloom with good water conditions, and can have a positive effect on water quality. However, the algae may shade or smother corals. To take control of the algae, we will remove by hand or use herbivore inhabitants (depending upon your aquarium's livestock profile).

Red Hair Algae :
Red hair algae will grow on coral branches in aquariums which nitrites are present. Algae can damage corals if it grows on their skeletons. This algae needs to be removed by hand, or by herbivore inhabitants (depending upon your aquarium's livestock profile).

Coralline Algae :
Red, pink, or brown, flattened circular calcified plants. They are slow growing, and can be attractive. They may however, smother other corals. They need to be removed by hand, and if necessary with the help of a blade.

Slime Algae :
Brown, yellow, dark green, and red colored filaments forming tufts on substrate. It can grow extremely fast, and is usually cased by uneaten food and/or dead leaves. A water change will need to be performed, and possibly a change in the rate of water flow throughout the aquarium. The algae will also need to be removed by hand, the addition of bacteria, or a protein skimmer can be used in conjunction.

Fish Ailments :

Your fish can become sick, even when proper, routine maintenance is performed. Observing the general health of your fish is very important!!! Early detection is key to prevent the spread of disease to other inhabitants in your aquarium. Some of the following fish ailments are commonly found in aquariums and are treatable if caught early enough!!!

Mouth Rot :

Cotton-like growths around the mouth, may be bacterial or fungal infection, and will need to be medicated.

Rapid gill movements :
Can be caused by a lack of oxygen, a high nitrite level, a parasite or bacterial infection. Needs to be medicated.

White Spots :
White spots like sugar grains located on skin and gills are signs of a parasite infection. Needs to be medicated, and if left untreated it will quickly spread to all the other inhabitants of your aquarium.

Fungus :
Cotton-like growths due to infection a of the skin which had been damaged. Needs to be medicated.

Fin Rot :
Ragged edges to the fins which may also be red and sore is a bacterial infection known as fin rot. Needs to be medicated, to stop it from spreading to the rest of the body.